Thursday, 16 June 2016

Merkur "Futur" Safety Razor Review - Decide What You Mean By "Adjustable" Before You Buy

The Futur on its lowest setting exposes more blade than the Progess does on its highest setting. For classic Gillette adjustable owners, setting 9 of 9 on the Fatboy or Slim is roughly the same as setting 2 of 6 on the Futur. Plus the Futur is immensely heavy, about 25% heavier than a Progess or a Fatboy. This adds up to a mighty aggressive shaver!

In my particular case, I can only use the least sharp blades in the Futur (aka Derby & Merkur) at the lowest possible setting (1 of 6). If I use some sharper blade (Personna Blue, Gillette 7 O'Clock Yellows, or even an Astra SP) or dare to crank the dial up to 2 of 6, aaargggh! Lobster face, razor burn for hours, even without any blood. So I can use 1 or 2 types of blades in this, and on only 1 of 6 settings. (There are half point settings as well, but even 1.5 is gap too far for me...) To me, this is not really an adjustable, as I always have to use the same setting and only certain types of blades, unless I want to rip my face off.

Lest you think me unmanly or inexpert, I will say I have used razors that are heavy (Maggard MR8) and some that are known for having aggressive heads (Parker 92R, Weber PH) and I can get smooth skin and a non-lobster face using those razors with all sorts of blades. It's only the Futur that causes me red-faced grief. Of course, in the wet shaving world, we have our flint-bearded Vikings, who have metallic stubble and shave once every several days. If you are one of these types, this may be your razor and maybe you can enjoy different blades and settings.

I like the adjustable concept as it gives users a lot of customization options and the ability to mix exposure up during different shave passes. Most users who want this feature set and do not want a deply abraded face would be better off with the Merkur Progress, or a vintage Gillette adjustable if you can get one at a reasonable price (think Super or Slim, not Fatboy!) but for most, the Progress will be the most affordable solution and that model is well made and offers a usable range of adjustment at a cheaper price than the Futur.

I feel bad rating the Futur poorly. It is well made, and I have none of the usual complaints. The head does indeed fit into the nooks and crannies of my face well enough, and I find blade replacement to be both simple and safe. I just can't see paying this much for a razor that (in my case) ends up being non-adjustable!

Progress = Merkur's adjustable for normal human male faces.

Futur = Merkur's adjustable for bristle faced Ubermensch.

Read it also: The Viking Blade

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